Step 1 — Check your phone supports eSIM
On iPhone, open Settings, General, About and look for an EID number. If an EID is listed, the phone can hold an eSIM. iPhone XS and later support it; iPhone 14 and later sold in the United States have no physical SIM tray at all.
On Android, open Settings, About phone or Network and internet, and look for an EID or for Add eSIM under SIM options. Pixel 3 and later and recent Samsung Galaxy S and Z models support eSIM.
The phone must also be carrier-unlocked. A handset still being paid off on a contract is often locked until the balance is cleared.
Step 2 — Check the carrier actually supports eSIM on your plan
Not every operator offers eSIM on every plan, and some support it for new lines only, not for a line moved across from a physical SIM.
Each plan page on this site states whether the plan supports eSIM, taken from the operator's own listing. Where an operator has not stated it, we leave it blank instead of assuming.
Prepaid brands riding the big three networks usually support eSIM; a few smaller MVNOs still ship physical SIMs only.
Step 3 — Buy the plan and activate the eSIM
Keep your old SIM active while you set the new one up. Nothing is cancelled until the number transfer completes.
After buying, the operator sends either a QR code or an activation code. On iPhone, go to Settings, Cellular, Add eSIM; on Android, Settings, Network and internet, SIMs, Add eSIM. Scan the code over Wi-Fi.
Activation usually takes a few minutes. Some carriers ask you to confirm your identity or enter a confirmation code first.
Step 4 — Port your existing number
You need your current account number and transfer PIN from the old carrier, plus the billing name and address exactly as they hold them. A mismatch is the most common reason a port stalls.
Start the port from the new carrier, never by cancelling the old one. Wireless ports normally complete within minutes and must legally complete within one business day.
Once the port completes, the old line closes by itself. Only then remove the old SIM or delete the old eSIM profile.
Step 5 — Label the lines and set which one uses data
With two lines active, name them (for example Personal and Work) so calls and messages go out from the right number.
Set the default line for mobile data. On a travel eSIM this matters most — leaving your home line on data abroad is how people come back to a roaming bill.
Turn off data roaming on the line you are not using, and check that Wi-Fi calling is enabled on the line you want for calls.
Step 6 — Watch your data in the first month
Reset the data counter when the new plan starts so you can see real usage against the allowance you paid for.
Most people use less high-speed data than they expect. If you finish the first month well under the allowance, a cheaper tier is usually available.
If you go over, check what the plan does next: some slow you down for the rest of the cycle, others charge per gigabyte. Plan pages here state which, where the operator publishes it.
What to do if something goes wrong
No service after activation: restart the phone, then check the new line is switched on and set as the data line.
Port stuck: almost always a mismatch in the account number, transfer PIN or billing address. Correct it with the new carrier — the old carrier cannot push the port through for you.
Deleted the eSIM by accident: profiles cannot always be re-added from the same QR code. Ask the carrier to reissue one; most do this free.
This guide is general information, not advice about a specific account. Always check current terms on the carrier’s own website before signing up.